Yesterday we went down and it was amazing: glassy shoulder to head-high waves, warm clear water and just a few friendly guys out. Totally amazing — beat surfboarding at Sandy’s any day.
The water had this strange but soothing softness about it. Maybe because it was warm and calm, I’m not sure. Maybe because it was brackish.
There was, however, an element of frustration: I couldn’t surf. The few waves I caught — I was labored and stiff on them. Simply not enough practice. I was nervous because I couldn’t see our truck, which had my prized longboard sticking out from the back.
It’s a hassle getting down to Waipi‘o, but well worth it when the surf is up.