It’s a powerful place with excellent surfing. I don’t mean run of the mill waves where you’re scratching with 10 other guys for a shitty longboard wave but many clean fast hollow big barrels for everyone.
Today I paddled out the shortboard and went for one wave: a right with a late, semi-hesitant drop. I got in and got barreled but then quickly paid the price, as my leash wrapped around my wrist. Plus I scraped my knee.
Good clean fun with power to humble the body, calm the mind and enjoy the things I have and not think about the thing I could be destroying the whatever head trip I’m on, too.